![]() I’ve not had a single problem with my lavender seedlings, other than one or two that quit very early on. Keep water off of the plant when watering - instead, tilt the pot when watering until the soil soaks up the water. ![]() There is no need to water if the soil is well watered before transplanting. Once the seedlings have been pulled from the bag, simply poke a pencil into a pot of moistened dirt, place the seedling in the hole, and pinch/back fill the soil halfway up the stem of the plant. These seeds are like stubborn sleeping teenagers: it takes a lot to get them out of bed. Give your bag of seeds a minimum of 3 months before you throw in the towel, and be sure that they have had at least 7 heated days (bring the bag to 75 to 85 degrees for a few hours each of these 7 days). ![]() You will have seeds sprouting several weeks apart! Strawberry or blueberry seeds may come to mind with this lengthy germination period, but lavender truly takes the cake here. It could be two weeks, or it could be twelve. Lavender will teach you everything that you need to know about patience, that is a guarantee. I know many people give up on lavender because they think the seeds are bad. Please … Have Patience! Photo by Krystal Slaughterĭon’t just toss your bag of seeds 3 or 4 weeks in because they’re not growing. I stratify any and all seeds that are stubborn or slow to germinate. The heat tells the seeds that spring is coming, and that it’s time to wake up! Of course, you want to simulate winter before spring, so be sure that they’ve been stratified for a few weeks. I placed my bag of seeds under a radiator heater at night (it was the dead of winter), and left them in the window or under the grow light during the day. If you have a window that is sunny and warm during the day but nice and cool/cold at night, that will work. I truly believe these seeds require cooling and heating to germinate properly. Give Seeds Heat Photo by Krystal Slaughter This could have been a coincidence (I may have moved them from the window just as the bulk of the viable seeds began to germinate), but I do believe the seedling light helped. Once I moved them, I saw an explosion in germination. I placed them in a window, as well, but the lighting over the seedlings was more intense than the north-facing window. ![]() I had a low germination rate along the journey until I tossed the bag of seeds under one of my seedling lights. Your lavender seeds will require light while sprouting, preferably via sunlight or grow light. ![]() Offer Your Seeds Adequate Light Photo by Krystal Slaughter They seem to be much more tender during germination, so allow this process to be completed before moving them. Lavender seedlings are incredibly easy to transplant and have (so far) been some of the most resilient seedlings that I’ve dealt with- I only recommend waiting until the first two leaves are open for 24 hours before removing them from the bag. You’ll be able to monitor germination and provide them with plenty of light while avoiding planting them too deeply. Instead, place the seeds in a bag (after a stratification period, I cover this in the link above) with a tablespoon of water, and squeeze all of the air out. Paper towels simply encourage fungal growth and it can be hard to find or remove the tender roots when it’s time to plant. Rather than placing your seeds in pots of soil, go with the baggy method. Without further ado, let’s get our hands dirty and get those lavender gardens started! Start Seeds in Bags, Not Pots Photo by Krystal Slaughter Today, I’m sharing a short overview of my tips and tricks which are further explained and broken down in my journey post on my blog. ![]()
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